How to fit wall tiles

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To fit wall tiles, you will need...

Things to think about when fitting wall tiles

How many tiles you will need may be worked out by simply dividing the wall area that you want to tile by pack size (coverage).

HEIGHT OF AREA x WIDTH OF AREA = NUMBER OF SQUARE METRES

SQUARE METRES / PACK COVERAGE = HOW MUCH YOU NEED

(Add 10% for cutting waste)
Your starting point is important to establish a balanced design and allows for manageable cuts. For example, if you are tiling a complete wall, allow for a similar size of cut tile in each corner.
Do not plan to leave small slivers at corners as they are difficult to cut. The closer a cut is to a half tile, the easier it is to make.
If you are starting at ground level, you cannot guarantee the floor is level. Attach a level batten and work from this to achieve a balanced design. When tiling off a bath or shower tray rim, check first that the edges are level, but these are normally suitable potential starting points for tile rows.
When you measure the dimensions of a design, remember to allow for grout gaps. For wall tiling, these are normally 2-3mm.
A regular grid pattern is the most common tile design, but you can stagger joints between rows to create a brick bond pattern or rotate tiles to create a diamond pattern. Application remains the same.
Spacers do not have to be used flat in between tiles. With thin tiles, staggered patterns and multi-sized tile designs, leave them protruding from tile gaps to dislodge and reuse later.
Some tiles require sealing, such as natural stone tiles. Use the tile manufacturer's recommended sealant and apply before grouting.
When tiling a smaller area such as a splashback above a basin, centralise the design according to the basin width. If the basin rim is level, you can use this to support the first and subsequent tile rows.
If you need to cut around pipes two methods apply. On a new project, ideally tile before the first fix plumbing is complete, so you can cut holes in tiles with special tile hole cutters before slipping them over the pipe end and attaching the fitting. Otherwise, use a profile gauge to provide a guideline for cutting with a tile saw.
Different types of tile trim are available for finishing off the edges of tile designs. Use at external corners (as shown in this leaflet) or on a flat wall surface as a neat edge to finish your design.
Seal dusty wall surfaces with a coat of PVA solution before tiling.

Step by step guide to fitting wall tiles

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Step 1: Nail a batten along the wall at your chosen starting point. Use a detector to help find safe fixing points.

Step 2: Use a notched adhesive spreader to apply adhesive to wall. Use the edge to create ribbed lines of equal depth.

Step 3: Position the first tile using a slight twisting motion onto the wall surface. Make sure it sits flush on the batten.

Step 4: Continue positioning tiles along the batten, using spacers to maintain equal gaps between the tiles for grout.

Step 5: Once you have laid a block of 6-9 tiles, use a spirit level to check that the tile surface is as flat as possible.

Step 6: If a tile has sunk below, or sits proud of, surrounding tiles, prise it off and add or remove adhesive accordingly.

Step 7: At a corner, measure from tile edge to corner - allow for grout. Measure top and bottom as the gap may vary.

Step 8: Mark measurements on a tile. Place in the tile cutter, score along the line and press down on handle to snap.

Step 9: Smooth any roughened cut edges using a tile file. Take care not to scratch the tile surface.

Step 10: With small cut sections of tile, apply the adhesive directly to the back of the tile, before pressing in position.

Step 11: At internal corners, spacers will need to be used across the corner to maintain gaps. Remove once adhesive has dried.

Step 12: For external corners, such as a window reveal, one option is to overlap tile edges along the corner.

Step 13: You can also use a corner trim. Stick along the corner with adhesive - ideal if covering cut or unglazed tile edges

Step 14: Use a profile gauge to create a cutting edge template for awkward shapes such as the edge of a window sill.

Step 15: Mark off the required profile cut on the tile and use a tile saw to carefully
cut out the required shape.

Step 16: If you need to make right-angled cuts, an electric tile saw is useful and quick.
Using a tile saw is a slower option.

Step 17: Once the main design is complete, allow the adhesive to dry overnight before removing the guide batten.

Step 18: Infill below the main design using cut tiles. Again use spacers to maintain gaps until the adhesive dries.

Step 19: Remove any excess hardened adhesive from tile surfaces using a window scraper. Don't scratch any tile surfaces.

Step 20: Mix grout (or take ready-mixed direct from tub) and apply across the tile surface, pressing firmly into the gaps.

Step 21: After every square metre or so, use a damp sponge to wipe across the tiles to remove any excess.

Step 22: As the grout just starts to harden, draw a grout shaper smoothly along the grout lines to create a neat finish.

Step 23: Once you have finished all grouting and it is quite dry, buff the surface with a dry cloth to remove residue.

Step 24: At the joints created with shower trays and baths, for example, silicone sealant needs to be applied.

Step 25: If applying sealant along the joint with a bath or shower tray, try to keep your work as neat as possible. Before applying sealant, use some masking tape to mark off either side of the joint. Clean surfaces before sticking down.

Step 26: Unscrew the nozzle and cut off the top of the tube. Replace the nozzle and load the tube into the gun.

Step 27: Cut off the tip of the sealant tube to slightly larger than the width of the gap between the masking tape lengths.

Step 28: Gently squeeze the trigger to apply the sealant along the joint. Move gradually to dispense an even bead.

Step 29: Smooth gently and evenly along the joint with a wetted finger to produce a consistent depth of sealant.

Step 30: Remove the masking tape and smooth once more with a wetted finger to provide a neat, watertight finish. Make sure the sealant is left to dry completely before using the bath or shower.

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The expert practical advice contained in this leaflet assists you in carrying out your home improvement projects both safely and successfully. If in doubt take professional advice and always follow manufacturers' instructions.