How to lay wood and laminate floors | Handy Guide DIY Project Advice

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To lay wood or laminate flooring, you will need...

Things to think about when laying flooring

Wooden floors can all be laid in many different ways. However, most commonly, engineered wood and laminate floors use a clip-together system, where sections of floor are slotted together using a tongue-and-groove connection system.
The connection system for laying wood floors can vary between manufacturers (some require adhesive, although most now don't), but the principles of how floors are laid remain fundamentally similar.
How much flooring you need can be worked out by dividing the required floor area by the area of one pack of your chosen flooring. Measure in metres, rounding up to the nearest half metre:
SQUARE METRES ÷ PACK COVERAGE = HOW MUCH YOU NEED. Length of room x width of room = number of square meters.
(Add 10% for cutting waste)
The best finish is achieved by laying the floor with the skirting and architrave removed. This is refitted after the floor is down, so that cut edges are covered and a neat finish is achieved.
Use edging beads if you do not wish to remove skirtings and architraves, or it is too difficult for you to do so. An excellent finish may still be achieved and this technique is shown in this leaflet.
Remove doors and refit them once the floor is down. Once you have laid the new floor, you may need to trim the base of the doors before refitting them, because of the new height of flooring.
No fixings or adhesives are used when laying most engineered wood and laminate floors as they are laid 'floating'. By following this technique, weight alone will keep them in place.
Underlay is essential to ensure comfort underfoot and act as a shock absorber. Different types and thicknesses are available.
A damp proof membrane (dpm) may need to be laid to protect from moisture. Always follow manufacturers' guidelines. The dpm is simply a plastic sheet that is rolled out and cut to fit around the edge of the room.To save time, you can buy an underlay that is already combined with a dpm.
The best starting point is to work back from a straight wall. If your room is very 'unsquare', adjust the starting position according to which is the 'squarest' corner and adjacent wall. When skirtings and architraves are in place (ie you haven't removed them) start on the 'door' wall, so that a neat edge is more easily achieved.

Step by step guide to laying wood and laminate floors:

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Step 1: Plan your work to begin with the first row of boards running along the wall containing the door to the room.

Step 2: Trim the architrave so that flooring will slide under. Use offcuts of underlay and flooring to trim the right depth.

Step 3: Lay underlay in rows, butt joining the panels. Cover the whole floor area. Cut to fit to the edges with a craft knife.

Step 4: Position the first board in the corner. The long tongued side of the board should be facing the wall.

Step 5: Position some wedges around the edge, between the skirting and the board, to create a 12mm expansion gap.

Step 6: Take another board and connect the short ends together. Normally this requires joining at a 45 degree angle.

Step 7: Push down and towards the joint to lock the board in place. A tap with a knocking block may be needed.

Step 8: At the doorway, allow the boards To span across the gap, but put a wedge either side of the entrance.

Step 9: Keep adding lengths and wedges. At the end of the row, measure the distance required to infill with a cut board, allowing 12mm for wedging.

Step 10: Boards may be cut with a panel saw. Alternatively, a jigsaw may be used, which is also the ideal tool for any more intricate cutting requirements.

Step 11: Clip the final board in position and wedge. Position a jemmy with its lip over the end of the board. Tap at the other end to tighten the join.

Step 12: Start the next row with the offcut of board from the last row. The join is first made using the same technique for the short ends of boards in the first row.

Step 13: Once this first offcut board is in place, one or two taps using a hammer and knocking block will be required to tighten the join.

Step 14: To connect the next length (this time a full length), engage the long edge first and tighten with the knocking block and a few taps of the hammer.

Step 15: Use the knocking block to tighten the joint with the short edge of the previous board. Keep adding boards to complete the second row.

Step 16: At the door, measure between the outer edge of each architrave, less 12mm each end for an expansion gap. Cut a board to this length.

Step 17: Trim lengthways to a width that will allow the joint between the different floorings to be under the door.

Step 18: Mark where to trim either end, allowing for the length to slide under the cut architrave. Make this cut with a jigsaw.

Step 19: Carefully slide the first two rows of boards away from the doorway so that you can easily join the cut piece to the edge, in front of the doorway. Ensure that the trimmed ends are lined up to slide under either side of the cut architrave.

Step 20: Push the two rows back in position, allowing the cut piece to slip neatly under the architrave, either side, where required. Continue with the third row of boards, and subsequent rows, to cover the floor area of the rest of the room.

Step 21: For pipes, mark off pipe position on the end of the board, by measuring pipe width and distance to the wall.

Step 22: Drill a hole with a bit large enough to allow a gap around the pipe. For a 15mm pipe, use a 32mm bit.

Step 23: Carefully cut out the marked board between the hole and skirting. Use a panel saw, or a jigsaw. Keep piece.

Step 24: Position the board in the normal way. Apply grab adhesive to the small cut piece and press in position to fill gap.

Step 25: Fit a pipe cover around the base of the pipe. Use a small dab of grab adhesive to keep it in place.

Step 26: In the final row, trim the boards to fill the gap width, allowing for 12mm expansion. Fit them using the jemmy.

Step 27: To neaten the join of the two floorings in the doorway, trim the threshold strip to fit using a junior hacksaw.

Step 28: Fit threshold with grab adhesive. Remove wedges around floor perimiter. Fit cork expansion strips if specified.

Step 29: Measure the lengths required for the edging beads. Use a mitre block to cut ends that will join at the corners.

Step 30: Apply contact adhesive along the back edge of the strip (the skirting board edge) and press into place.

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The expert practical advice contained in this leaflet assists you in carrying out your home improvement projects both safely and successfully.
If in doubt take professional advice and always follow manufacturers' instructions.