With today's easy-to-use standard paints, the hardest part about choosing is probably deciding on the colour!

For interior wood and metal

Solvent-borne paints Widely available in gloss or semi-matt (often called 'satin' or 'eggshell') finishes. Most types need an undercoat. Clean up with white spirit or turpentine. Non-drip gloss Easier to use than Liquid Gloss. Gives a thicker more protective coat than Liquid Gloss. Water-borne gloss Non-yellowing, quick drying and lower in odour when compared with solvent-borne paints. Enamel High quality gloss in vivid colours for small jobs. Gives a brilliant mirror shine. Undercoat Provides smooth base for final painting. Check the instructions on the topcoat you're using, to see what kind and colour of undercoat you need (if any).

For interior walls and ceilings Vinyl emulsion Matt ('silk' or 'sheen') types are widely available. Use matt on imperfect surfaces and silk sheen on embossed papers or where you need a wipe-clean finish. Washes out in water. Solid emulsion Thick emulsion sold in trays, ready to put on with a roller. Very easy to use. Kitchen & bathroom paint A highly durable emulsion paint designed to withstand areas of high condensation.

For outdoor use Standard solvent-borne paints are not durable enough for use outside. Always use paint from a manufacturers 'Exterior' range. Ordinary emulsion is not strong enough for outside walls, so always use an exterior version - these contain additives that kill fungi and give extra strength. See our leaflet 'Painting Outside' for more advice on choosing and using materials.

(See also 'Selecting woodcare products')

Anti-condensation paint Helps prevent condensation in kitchens and bathrooms by insulating the surface. Use on its own or under kitchen and bathroom emulsion.

Bituminous paint Waterproof paint for external pipes, gutters and storage tanks. Usually brown or black.

Floor paint Hardwearing paints for concrete, brick, vinyl and wooden floors.

Heat-resisting enamel Black paint used for touching up solid fuel stoves (the painted steel type) and flue pipes.

Masonry paint Name given to some types of exterior emulsion.

Microporous paint For new untreated exterior timber. Keeps out moisture but allows wood to 'breathe'.

Radiator paint Some ordinary gloss white paints turn yellow on hot radiators. With radiator paint you can be sure they stay white.

Textured paint Paste-like emulsion, which sets with a textured surface. Or you can apply a decorative pattern with a roller or notched spreader. For indoor use.

(Primers and sealers are designed to take up the porosity of the surface to avoid excessive use of top coats. On metal, use a universal or metal-only primer.

Knotting Brush onto knots in softwood before painting to stop resins oozing through the paint. Use white knotting under white paint and clear knotting under water-borne paints & varnishes.

Primer/undercoat Quick drying paint which seals and undercoats bare wood in one go.

All-purpose primer All-round primer for wood, metal and plaster.

Anti-rust primer Use on old ironwork, after treating existing rust. It neutralises corrosion which might otherwise stain paintwork.

Wood primer White paint for sealing wood before painting.

Metal primers Use on bare, non-rusty metal to give a good grip for undercoat and topcoats. Check the maker's recommendations to ensure the primer is suitable for the metal you plan to paint.

Alkali-resisting primer Prevents alkaline salts in new concrete, plaster or brickwork from attacking paint coatings.

Stabilising primer Binds powdery or flaky wall surfaces.

PVA General-purpose adhesive. Excellent for sealing surfaces such as new plaster.

Stabilising solution/water seal Clear sealer for masonry and exterior brickwork.

Tile Specially formulated to prepare tile surfaces for top coat, preventing peeling.

Melamine Specially formulated to prepare melamine surfaces for top coat, preventing flaking.

MDF An innovative product with superior adhesion for priming MDF.

When using paints and varnishes indoors, make sure the room you are working in is properly ventilated. Don't smoke or use naked flames.

(Always check the tin when you buy paint, to make sure you use the correct cleaner. Wear gloves when cleaning up and be careful to keep splashes away from skin and eyes. Do not dispose of waste paint and cleaner down the drain. Contact your local authority for guidance on the disposal of unwanted paint. They may operate a paint re-use scheme.

Brushes

When using water-borne paints, use appropriate brush for best results. Scrape excess paint back into pot and onto old newspaper, then clean in water ensuring you get all paint out of the roots of the bristles. Put an elastic band round the tips of the bristles to hold the shape while drying. When using solvent-borne paints, always use appropriate bristle brush for best results. Suspend the brush with clothes pegs in a jar of cleaner rather than go to the trouble of cleaning it between coats. Dry it on kitchen paper before starting again.

Rollers

Run the roller over old newspaper to remove excess paint. Wrap in kitchen foil between coats. Clean emulsion paint by flushing under a running tap until the water runs clear. Get rid of solvent-borne paint by pouring cleaner into the roller tray and agitating the roller until all paint has dissolved. Finish cleaning by rubbing in a little detergent and rinsing away. Paint pads Clean as for rollers, making sure you wash all traces of paint out of the foam backing as well as the pile.