What tile adhesive?
Consideration should be taken as to what tile adhesive should be used. For floors which will require to be brought back into service after 24 hours, the rapid set powder cement based adhesive should be used. The ready mixed floor tile adhesive is more convenient to use but does require a longer drying time before the floor can be brought back into service.

Conditions and temperature should be taken into consideration when using the ready mixed type as cold and damp conditions will delay the setting time of the adhesive and tiles cannot be fixed when the temperature is below 10?C. Always follow instructions on the adhesives's packaging.

Preparing the floor
It's absolutely vital that the floor is level. If it's not, the tiles will not sit properly and wear unevenly.

If you've a wooden floor, check for signs of damp or woodworm, hammer in any protruding nails and sink screws below the surface. Nail down loose boards and replace badly damaged ones. Fill gaps with slithers of wood, planed flush. Then smooth the entire surface - with a power floor sander if the boards are very uneven.

If you're using power tools, dont forget:ounplug after use.
o wear protective eye goggles.

For perfect results, cover the floor with hardboard, laid rough side up and nail down at 150mm intervals. Ceramic tiles need a stronger base of chipboard or 15mm interior grade plywood.

If you've a solid floor, fill holes deeper than 5mm with a sand and cement mix or smooth with a self-levelling compound.

Where to start
It's vital that you start laying floor tiles from the centre because internal walls rarely run square to one another.

To find the centre of the room, regard it as a simple rectangle and fix chalked string between the mid-points of opposite walls. Pull one string taut and let it drop sharply - leaving a chalk line on the floor. Repeat with the other length of string. The centre is where the lines cross.

Dry-lay the tiles in all four directions from this centre point, butting them up closely. If the space between the walls and the last tile on either axis is very narrow, adjust the centre tile slightly.

When fixing the tiles permanently, tackle a quarter of the floor at a time. Work along the chalked lines then fill in between the whole tiles. Mark and cut the border tiles.

Continually check with a straight edge that the joins align. Use a spirit level to ensure that the tiles are flat.

1 Unwrap the tiles and leave them in the room for 48 hours before laying. Please refer to manufacturers instructions.

2 Spread the adhesive thinly but evenly, using a notched spreader - applying just enough at one time for two or three tiles. Press each tile down firmly.

3 To mark the border tiles for cutting, place a spare one (A) neatly on top of the last whole tile in the row. On top of this, place a second one (B), sliding it across until it butts against the wall. Mark a line along the back edge of (B) onto (A) and cut along the line.

4 To cut around awkward shapes, use a profile gauge or make a template of thin card.

5 To cut around a pipe, mark its position on the tile using a compass. Draw parallel lines from the perimeter of the circle to the edge of the tile. Measure halfway between the lines and cut a straight slit to the tile's edge. Bend back the slit and slide the tile into place.

6 If your cork tiles are not presealed, protect them with three coats of polyurethane varnish. Please refer to manufacturers instructions.

1 Dry-lay carpet tiles with only the central tile glued down and every third row secured with double-sided carpet tape to prevent slipping.

2 Check that the pile on each tile is running in the direction you want it and use a knee-kicker or wooden block to butt the tiles tightly together.

3 Mark border tiles for cutting as you would vinyl.

1 Work on the quarter of the room furthest from the door first to avoid having to walk on the tiles. Spread adhesive onto a square yard of floor at a time, using a notched spreader. Press each tile into place - giving a final twist to ensure that it sticks.

2 Few floor tiles have spacing lugs, so use plastic floor tile spacers or card.

3 Once all the whole tiles are down leave them to set for 24 hours.

4 Cut corner tiles with tile cutters, intricate shapes with a tile saw or nibblers. Smooth with a tile file.

5 When all the adhesive has set, grout the floor as you would wall tiles.

Leave to dry for 48 hours.

1 Unwrap the panels and leave them in the room for 48 hours before laying.

2 Apply adhesive to the floor using a notched spreader. Refer to manufacturers instructions for coverage. Press each panel into place leaving a gap of 13mm (1/2)

3 Cut each border panel with a tenon saw, holding it right side up on a workbench to avoid splitting the decorative veneer.

4 With the flooring complete, cover the expansion gap around the walls with beading.

5 Lightly sand unfinished wood panels and seal with three coats of polyurethane varnish.