Ladder safety
Make sure the foot of the ladder has a firm and level base with a sandbag or similar heavy object. If the base is on soft ground place the legs on a large piece of board to spread the weight and prevent sinking. Use a ladder 'stay' to position the ladder away from the eaves so you can work more easily. If possible, tie the top of the ladder into ring bolts at eaves level.

Estimating materials
required will be almost the same as those in place at the moment. Before you remove the existing system measure it carefully to give you the lengths for the new gutters and downpipes, and check the diagram to make a list of what you will need. While you measure, get used to the feel of working on a ladder and never overextend your reach.

Guttering and downpipes are available in 2 and 3 metre lengths. Gutters need bracket supports every 1m, downpipes need pipe brackets at the top and bottom and every 2 metres. All Unions, Stop Ends, Running outlets and Angles (see diagram) require a fascia bracket within 150 mm of the join - on both sides if possible.

1 Old cast iron guttering is very heavy. You will find it a lot easier to remove with two people working from two different ladders. Lift the old guttering out of its brackets and take it to the ground making sure the weight does not catch you off balance. Alternatively, use a rope to lower removed sections to the ground. Do not try to separate sections with a hammer and do not drop it as it can shatter, spreading sharp fragments everywhere.

Be especially careful when replacing asbestos guttering *.

Asbestos guttering is better left intact and should not be sawn. During removal keep it damp to prevent any dust. Your local Environmental Health Department will tell you how to remove it and dispose of it safely.

2 Not all cast iron guttering has brackets but instead is screwed directly into the fascia. Use a wide bolster chisel to lever it off and use 150 mm nails hammered into the fascia to take the weight of the gutter while it is being removed. Bolts holding the old guttering together may be rusted tight. Try using liberal amounts of penetrating oil to loosen them off. If this fails, saw through them with a junior hacksaw or a mini angle grinder - but be very careful.

3 Next, the downpipes. Starting from the bottom, remove the existing downpipe brackets using a wrecking bar. Work upwards until the downpipe is free. Be careful not to let the offset bend at the top drop as this will be unsupported when the downpipe is removed.

4 Fill any nail or screw holes on the fascia board, then paint it before putting on the new guttering. If it is rotten it will need to be replaced and painted both sides before refixing.

1 Using a plumb line, mark the position on the fascia board where the Running Outlet or Stopped(point A) will go so it is directly above the ground level drain. Remember, this will be the lowest point of the guttering so it needs to be quite low on the fascia board. Connect the Running Outlet.

2 Guttering needs to slope gently down at least 12mm every 3m towards the Running Outlet to provide effective drainage. To achieve this slope, run a piece of string from the centre of the running outlet to the end of the fascia , making sure you raise it 4mm for every metre then tie it to a nail.

Fix a support bracket using rustproof screws 150mm in from the end of the fascia and using the gently sloping string as a guide, fix the other support brackets not more than 1 metre apart and no more than 40mm from the roof tiles.

3 Downpipes and guttering expand and contract even in small temperature changes. Expansion marks, shown on plastic parts, should be worked to at all times.

4 To cut the guttering to the right size use a hacksaw and then file down any rough edges. To ensure a square cut and avoid cracking, overlay the guttering with another piece and start cutting from the bottom.

5 Place the guttering in the U-shaped support brackets and snap into position. If you find any roof felt sticking out from under the roof tiles just let it rest in the gutter.

1 Once you've attached the guttering to the Running Outlet, you can add the downpipes. To connect them together you will need two Offset Bends and a short length of pipe. Because this section has no support brackets this needs to be a good fit to stop it working loose.

2 Work your way down from the Offset (following the plumb line as you go) and fix the downpipe sections to the wall using pipe brackets and 40mm screws and wallplugs. Pipe connectors join pipes together. Run the downpipe into a rainwater shoe about 40mm above the drain grate. Focus have a range of plastic drain covers available to prevent blockages.