Managing the soil

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Although at first sight your garden soil would appear to be solid and robust it is in fact a fragile living environment that must be at the very least, protected and wherever possible improved by certain rules of good soil cultivation.

After the builder

The very worst situation is directly after the builders have left the site of a newly built house where the soil has been moved, mixed and worst of all, compacted.

The best types of soil will normally be the dark fertile top-soil (loam). Before the builders started their work this soil would have been the top layer and should have been put back.

Compaction is a problem that must always be addressed to ensure that there is no 'pan' or layer of compacted soil. This will prevent water from draining away and plant roots from penetrating it in dry spells in their search for water.

'Pans' can show their effects many years after planting and leads to the death of plants and drying out of lawns.

Double digging

Double digging will take care of most of these problems and by cultivating the soil to a depth of 50cm (18in). Adding well-rotted farmyard manure, spent mushroom compost or other proprietory pre-planting organic material, will help improve the soil by holding in moisture and providing some plant foods.

	1. Dig a trench one spade or fork deep and 70cm (2ft) wide. Store the soil to fill the final trench.
	2. Fork over the base of the trench, adding compost or manure.
	3. Dig and throw forward the next 70cm mixing in organic material, so creating the next trench.
	4. Repeat until the entire plot has been dug and fill in the last trench with the soil from the first.

Double digging

Double digging is achieved by using a digging spade or fork but with care the hire of a mini-digger can prove an effortless way of soil preparation, particularly if large areas are to be prepared.

Whether using a fork and spade or a mini-digger the following rules should be followed.

1. Never attempt to prepare the soil when very wet or frozen.

2. Always attempt to keep the fertile top-soil on the top and the sub soil below.

3. Add good quantities of organic material.

4. Dig deep if 'pans' are suspected.

5. On very wet soils consider additional drainage.

6. When possible, prepare in autumn to leave winter weather to naturally break down the soil surface.

7. Always try to work off a board when digging to prevent compaction.

Salvage

It is worth salvaging bricks and rubble as soil preparation progresses as they can be used for hardcore, under paths or even for surfacing the path. Odd pieces of timber may be useful for edging borders or producing temporary supports for banks and other constructions.

Weeds, in particular perennial types, should be removed as seen by digging out or by using a weedkiller. Dandelions, Couch Grass (Twitch), Ground Elder and Docks are amongst the worst.

If the area is covered by grass or turf it may be worth considering removing it as thin turfs and storing in a stack in one corner of the garden. By stacking them roots upwards in a tidy square heap they will soon rot down into top-soil that can be used later.

Acidity and alkalinity

There are a number of plants that will only tolerate an acid soil and therefore before planting starts it is important to test to find out the amount of acidity present.

This is achieved by carrying out a soil test to determine the level of pH (Phosphorus Hydrogen) in the soil. To do this soil test kits can be purchased from your Garden Centre or Retail Nursery. First take samples using a hand trowel in a line diagonally across the area to be tested at 2m (6ft) intervals and 15cm (6in) deep. Bring these samples together in a plastic bag or bucket, avoiding contact with your hands to prevent contamination. Take a small amount from the sample and test following the directions on the kit. The pH content can be decided by comparing the sample with the colour chart supplied.

Once the acidity is known the right plants can be chosen.