Growing From Cuttings at Focus

Growing from cuttings

Printable Version

Cuttings fall into three main groups. Hardwood, Softwood and Semi-Ripe.

Whichever method you use it is essential that cuttings are taken from healthy plants.

Choice of seed

Taking hardwood cuttings is one of the easiest methods with which to produce new plants such as Salix (Willow), Deutzia and many other shrubs, and only needs secateurs. From Autumn to early Spring, select sections of shoots produced by the plant in the previous Spring and Summer. Strong growth should be selected and removed near its base or point of origin.

These shoots, approximately the thickness of a pencil, should be cut square below a bud to form a base, and at an angle of 35o and some 23-25cm (9-10ins) long.

The prepared cuttings should be inserted into a 12-15cm (5-6in) trench made in well dug garden soil.

To aid rooting, fill the bottom 5cm (2in) of the trench with sharp sand for drainage and treat the bottom 3cm (1in) of each cutting with rooting hormone.

Hardwood cuttings in pots

Alternatively plant 3 or 4 cuttings in a pot containing multi-purpose or cutting compost, and place in a cold frame or sheltered part of the garden. By the following Autumn the rooted cuttings can be carefully planted out in their final growing positions.

Softwood cuttings

These are taken in the early to late Spring and are used to grow many semi-tender plants such as Geraniums and Fuchsias, many herbaceous plants and some alpines. The young growth on shrubs such as Artemesia (Wormwood), Lavandula (Lavender) and Rosemarinus (Rosemary) may also respond well to this method.

In the Spring, remove shoots from the parent plant once they are firm enough to handle and not too soft to lose their rigidity.

Using a sharp knife or secateurs, prepare the cutting by first making a cut at an angle of 35o at the base of the chosen shoot. Cuttings should be 5-10cm (2-4ins) long according to plant variety. Depending on the leaf formation, if the leaves are alternate on the shoot, make the upper cut four leaf joints above the first cut. If the leaves are opposite, make the cut above the second pair of leaves. In both cases make the top cut at a slight angle, away from the buds in the leaf joint.

Reducing moisture loss

Gently remove the lower leaves, and if the remaining leaves are more than 3cm (1in) long, halve them in size with a knife, to cut down moisture loss during the pre-rooting period.

Rooting the softwood cutting

Dip the bottom 3cm (1in) of the prepared cutting into water and shake off the surplus before rolling the bottom inch into rooting hormone. Insert the cutting into seed trays or pots containing sharp or silver sand or a general purpose potting compost. Best results are normally achieved by using sharp sand only for most plants.

Ideally the tray or pot is then placed into a propagator. If not it can be covered with or placed into a large clear plastic bag and tied. Use canes or sticks to keep the bag from touching the cuttings. For plants which are more difficult to root it is best to use a controllable heated propagator.

When using a propagator, all vents should be closed and the cover shaded using a newspaper or similar. After 7-10 days the vents can be opened and the shading removed.

Growing on the rooting cutting

Once the cuttings make new shoots at the leaf joints, this is a good indication that rooting has taken place and the tray or pot can be removed from the propagator or the plastic bag removed.

Once they are more than 3cm (1in) long the rooted cuttings can be potted into individual pots containing general potting compost. Four to six weeks later they should be large enough to plant in their final growing positions as long as all fear of frost has passed.

Semi-ripe cuttings

Semi-ripe cuttings of many Shrubs and Climbers can be taken in late Spring to Midsummer. Success is not guaranteed with all varieties but always worth a try.

The method of preparation is the same as for softwood cuttings, the only difference being the age of the shoot being used. This should be firm but not fully rigid.

The use of a propagator is more important and the availability of controllable heat will enhance the success rate. Rooting is slower than softwood cuttings, but once new growth has reached 3cm (1in) the cuttings can be potted on into individual pots.

Grow the young plants on in a frost free light-protected environment such as a greenhouse or garden frame with no additional heat. In the following Spring or Autumn plant out in the garden or into larger pots.

Tools Required: