Wall plants

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Almost any shrub can be grown against a wall or fence but there are a selected number that benefit from such a training technique.

Plants such as Ceanothus (California Lilac) are protected from cold winters and late spring frosts.

Others such as Chaenomeles (Japonica) use the supports so that they can be trained to show off their flowers to the best effect.

Others may not need the warmth for protection but to help ripen the fruit and fan-trained fruit such as Plums and Peaches are good examples.

Magnolias and Camellias in cold areas may have their flowers damaged by late Spring frosts and planting on the west side of a wall will reduce the damage

Sometimes, but not always, it may be possible to train a shrub flat against the wall to prevent it from covering too much forward space as with Pyracantha (Firethorn). Most wall shrubs have the advantage over climbing plants by being able, with a little help, to cover the wall from ground level to as high as required forming a dense cover for the wall or fence.

Growing aspects

Almost any fence or wall can be covered and the following are some suggestions for a range of aspects:

North facing:
Cotoneaster (large leaved varieties)
Garrya elliptica (Tassel Bush)
Pyracantha (Firethorn)
Viburnum tinus (Laurustinus)
Weigela (in particular variegated varieties)

South facing:
Ceanothus (California Lilac)
(Evergreen and Deciduous) Cytisus battandieri (Moroccan Broom)
Myrtus (Myrtle)
Pittosporum and many other tender shrubs.

East facing:
Cotoneaster (small-leaved varieties)
Euonymus (evergreen types)
Forsythia (Gold Ball)
(in particular F. suspensa)
Jasminum nudiflorum (Winter Jasmine)
Lonicera (Shrubby Honeysuckle)

West facing:
Abutilon (Flowering Maple)
Camellia Cistus (Rock Rose)
Fremontodendron (Fremontia)
Magnolia (deciduous and evergreen varieties)

Support

Whichever shrub is chosen and for whatever reason, it will require support during its life grown against a wall.

This is best achieved by securing wires at 50cm (18in) apart up the wall and covering the full height of the wall or fence. The wires are easy to fix using screwed or stamped vine-eyes screwed into rawlplugs in the wall or driven into pre-bored holes, depending on which type is used

With many wall shrubs it may be necessary to fix canes to the wires then as the shrub grows tie the new shoots to the canes using soft garden twine. This should be checked regularly to ensure the shoots and stems are not strangled. During Spring and Summer, normally after flowering, any forward protruding shoots can be shortened to keep the plant within bounds.

Soil preparation

Careful soil preparation should be carried out, digging at least to a depth of 23cm (9in) or more and mixing in good quantities of organic compost such as well-rotted farmyard manure, spent mushroom compost, garden compost or a proprietary planting compost.

Planting distance

Whichever shrub is chosen and for whatever reason, it will require support during its life grown against a wall.

This is best achieved by securing wires at 50cm (18in) apart up the wall and covering the full height of the wall or fence. The wires are easy to fix using screwed or stamped vine-eyes screwed into rawlplugs in the wall or driven into pre-bored holes, depending on which type is used

The wall shrub, when planted, should be at least 40-50cm (15-18in) away from the wall or fence to allow for growth of the stem and also to ensure there is a good supply of moisture for the roots. Feeding with a general fertilizer in the Spring will ensure that the shrub has adequate food to develop and flower successfully.